As autumn settles over Bumthang Valley—typically in October or November—Jambay Lhakhang, one of Bhutan’s oldest temples built by Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century, becomes the sacred stage for a festival like no other: Jambay Lhakhang Drup.

Held in honour of Guru Rinpoche, this vibrant celebration draws pilgrims and visitors into the heart of Bhutanese spiritual tradition. By day, the courtyard fills with sacred cham dances, where masked monks and villagers move in rhythmic devotion. Each performance echos stories of good triumphing over evil—many said to have been composed by Terton Pema Lingpa, the 15th-century treasure discoverer.

As darkness deepens, the Mewang begins. Villagers run beneath a flaming gate of dry grasses—embers falling around them—believing this fire blessing purifies body and spirit and invites good fortune.

Then, in the hush of night, comes Tercham—the Dance of Treasure. Completely nude except for ritual masks, dancers move solemnly around the fire. Performed only once a year, it’s believed to bless infertile women and cleanse karmic obstacles. Out of respect, guides encourage silent reflection over photography.

With flickering butter lamps, the distant echo of drums, and ancient chants swirling in the cold night air, this festival transcends spectacle. It becomes a passage—into Bhutan’s spiritual soul, where faith is lived, not just seen, and the sacred breathes with fire, earth, and silence.